Wargames have been aptly called "conflict simulations." Most wargames are attempting to simulate some conflict, usually a military one. For this reason, many gamers, being students of history, attempt to use military experience to play the games most effectively.
At this point, I ought to state some basic assumptions, the first being that most people will play these games to "win." This is not always the case. Many gamers simply play for the experience, to "experience" the information. But if one is to play to win, one must understand the limitations of the games.
The major limitation of the typical wargame is that it appears to be a very accurate representation of actual conflict. The problem is that the games are somewhat accurate but they do have their limitations in the realism department. What follows will be a detailed dissection of how the games work for the purpose of being able to play
them more effectively, whether it be to win the game or simply to exercise it to see what the game is capable of doing.
The most common and perhaps the simplest type of wargame to handle is the one using a hexagonal grid across which thick cardboard playing pieces (representing the military units in the battle) are moved. The basic thing a gamer has to grasp is how to move the units most efficiently, and how to position his units so as to be able to destroy the opposing player's units. Destroying the other sides armed forces is usually the object of most wargames, but not always.
Remember that there is a complete set of rules for the Drive on Metz game in the back of this book. You may want to consult those game rules as we explore the techniques of playing wargames.
In movement there are two key things you must consider. The first is the movement allowance each unit has. That is, the number of hexagons it can move each turn. The next most important element in movement is the Terrain Effects Chart. In fact, when looking at a new set of rules these are the first two things you should check. What are the range of movement allowances in the game and what does the Terrain Effects Chart look like? The Terrain Effects Chart shows the cost (in movement points) to move on various types of terrain on the map. At this point you look at the map and you can quickly see what areas your units will have an easier time going into and which areas they will more likely get bogged down in. The Terrain Effects Chart also shows the effects of terrain upon combat. Generally speaking, terrain that is more difficult to move in is also more difficult to attack in.
In most games this is represented by the unit defending while in such terrain being able to increase its defense strength by a factor of two or three or more. For example, a unit with a combat strength of four defending in good defensive terrain would have an effective defense strength of, say, eight or even 12, depending on the severity of the terrain.
At this point, without even getting into the rules too deeply, you have an idea of how capable the various units (of both sides) are of moving about the map and their chances of success in combat in the various kinds of terrain. Now, the next thing you look at is the Combat Results Table. Almost all games have these. Some games have many of them, but it's simply more of the same thing. Most Combat Results Tables are based on the idea that the more combat power you have, the better your chance of success. There are usually two broad types of Combat Results Tables: bloody and bloodless. The bloody CRT generally involves a lot of results that have units being eliminated from the game. A bloodless CRT is one in which the losing units are usually moved back ("retreated").
Now you can start reading the rules of the game. The rules will make
a lot more sense because everything else in the rules basically revolves around nuances of moving and fighting with your units.
When a game is designed, generally the first things that go into it are the map, the values on the playing pieces (combat strength and movement allowance), the Terrain Effects Chart and the Combat Results Table. As the game is developed, various bits of what I call "chrome" are added. You must now search through the rules for these other elements since they will affect, sometimes dramatically, the use of the basic game elements (terrain effects, CRT, map, counters). You don't really have to study the rules in scrupulous detail. Once you have an understanding of what is supposed to be going on in the game, you should immediately set the pieces up and have a go at it. And this can or should happen 10 or 15 minutes after you start studying the basic components (if not sooner, or later depending on the size and complexity of the game).
Most games come with two or more "set-ups." One of these is usually the historical set-up and gives the position of the units of both sides at the beginning of the battle so that you may attempt to re-create the battle yourself. It is generally a good idea to set up the basic historical situation. This will do two things for you.
First of all, it will give you a bit of historical information, which is one of the reasons why you got the game in the first place. Secondly, it will give you an opportunity to pick some interesting situations that will help you learn by playing the game.
Once you have this historical set-up, you should take one section of the map containing no more than, say, three or four units on a side and proceed to practice the movement and combat as outlined in the rules. You should take only a small section of the map containing but a few units because you are liable to make mistakes. You will undoubtedly constantly want to restart the game as you find you have made mistakes so it is better to deal with only a small number of units.
Now it's a good idea to consider the possibility of adding a few enhancements to your game components. Take, for example, the set-up locations of your units. Generally, it's a hex. In a few games, the hex is marked with a symbol showing the unit that's supposed to go there or the unit itself has the hex number printed on it (if numbered hexes are used) for that unit. If this is not the case, you might consider taking a very fine-point pen (so you can write small) and write either on the front or the back of the playing pieces the hexagon they are normally set up on or, perhaps, even marking the map. This is so that when you go through a turn or two, either in testing the game or actually playing it, you can easily go back to "go" and start again if you find that you would have done something differently.
The biggest cause of problems is overlooking some minor, but critical,
modifications in the rules that invalidate two or three turns of your playing. Typical examples are games that have a rule whereby one side is limited in its movement for the first two or three turns of the game or where, on certain turns of the game, certain units on one side or the other have a bonus or where certain terrain features change in their effectiveness. These are all chrome elements which, quite frankly, often don't have that dramatic an effect on the game itself but which, when ignored, allow the players to be creative and play "their" way, rather than the way in which the designer intended. This is something that is easier to discover if you take the game in small pieces, a chunk at a time, as it were. Keep in mind that a full-size (22-inch by 33-inch) map sheet can contain as many as 2,000 hexagons. In most games using a map of this size, the number of hexes that will be most actively played over will amount to as many as 300 or 400. For this reason it makes good sense to choose a small area with a small number of pieces to test and develop your knowledge of the game before committing yourself to moving all those playing pieces over all those hexagons.
New gamers should be made aware of the fact (before they actually learn it for themselves) that the game does not have to be played the way the designer intended it in order to be played well. While most publishers make a fetish of at least attempting to come out with well-written and complete rules for their games, these efforts often fall short (often far short) of the goal. Yet, many games with truly terrible rules continue to be popular and widely played. The reason for this is simple. The average gamer is a rather intelligent person. Once the person has immersed himself in the basic mechanics of wargames (and we just reviewed most of them) and given the average gamer's interest (not to mention actual knowledge) of historical events, you have someone who can take a game with mangled rules but good intentions and turn it into what the designer intended. The players can and do change things themselves in games and get away with it. Most games are not even played strictly according to the rules. I have seen this happen many, many times. Yet the games still play. This is less likely to happen with a computer wargame, but even here, programmers are often astounded at how gamers managed to get around the way the program was supposed to work.
Depending on which way you bend the rules, the game will play better or worse for it. A really good game is usually dependent upon one of two factors: either very high quality in design and development (good rules to begin with that are accurately and easily presented) or simply good players who are interested enough and excited enough about a particular game to make it work and work well.
Most games are purchased and played on the basis of their subject matter (more than any other characteristic). If you have an abiding interest
in the subject of a particular game, you will, without much prompting, make the game do something interesting.
Now that you've got the basic stumbling blocks out of the way, we can get down to some real, nitty gritty, how-to-win advice. While the games Victory Conditions drive the game, the nuances of the game rules are what will get you where you want to go.
The first thing you'll want to do is "crack the system." Every game has certain idiosyncrasies which determine the "flow" of play. Such an idiosyncrasy would be, for example, one side having a larger number of weaker units than the other. Another example would be one side starting the battle with its units spread over a far wider area than the other. You should make a note of things like that. Next, go back and examine the Combat Results Table (CRT) again. Most CRT's employ the odds system; that is, you total up the attacking player's strength points (numerical value) and compare them to the defending player's. You divide the defender's strength points into the attacker's and get a ratio which is usually rounded off so that 1.2 to 1 would be 1 to l or 3.2 to 1 would be 3 to 1, etc.
Another common type of CRT is the differential where you simply
subtract the defender's strength points from the attacker's, in which case you get a superiority (+1, +2, +3, etc.). In most CRT's (in fact in practically all) there is a "break point," an odds column above which the attacker is favored. In odds CRT's, this is generally, but not always, the 3 to 1 column. In other words if you launch an attack where you have three times as much combat strength as a defending unit, your chances of success are good. As the odds go up (4 to 1, 5 to 1, etc.) they get better. You must examine the CRT of the particular game that you are involved in and simply note where the advantage begins. Thus, when you're playing around with a small section of the game map and units, you can see the types of attacks you are most likely to get. Again, this is involving all of the key elements of the game. In order to examine the CRT you must take into account the Terrain Effects Chart, the general types of terrain you will be encountering in playing the game as well as the combat strength and the movement ability of the units.
At this point, it is important to consider some basic laws of game playing. In most historical games, the object is to provide at least a modicum of historicity. In other words, the thing that makes most wargames different from an abstract game such as Monopoly is that they do go out of their way to pay attention to what actually happened historically. This means that since most battles were the result of one side or the other underestimating the other side's strength, there was often a disparity in the strengths and
abilities of the two armies. In other words, one side usually has a tough row to hoe. They're outnumbered. They're outclassed. They're going to have to work very hard in order to win the game. Sometimes the victory conditions in the game reflect this. The potentially losing side would be granted a "game victory" if they did not lose as badly as they did historically. But devices such as this still do not change the fact that one side is going to be constantly reacting to the activity of the superior side, and ultimately losing most of the time.
All right, let's review the steps that we have taken so far to turn this mysterious jumble of numbers, hexagonal shapes, colors and charts into something recognizable.
One: We have examined the playing pieces, Terrain Effects Chart, map, Combat Results Table and Victory Conditions for patterns of information.
Two: After examining these, we have gone through the rules to find whatever modifiers there are to these patterns.
Three: We have set up and examined the game situation, usually using the historical set-up, and have studied this if only for the historical information it reveals.
Four: We have taken a small section of this historical set-up and begun moving the units around, having combats and generally getting a feel for the game.
Five: We have taken the Combat Results Table and analyzed it for the point where it favors the attacker over the defender.
You now have the tools to begin cracking just about any game. Some games will involve a lot more work than others, but these are the basic techniques. Now, to use them.
Assume you are the superior player in a game; that is, you are the one with most things in your favor (number of units, strength of units, positions, etc.). You have two options: Have a lot of fun being aggressive and outrageously innovative and take a chance on losing the game or be cautious and have a pretty-much assured, albeit dull, victory. If you are the inferior player, you have only one choice: Dig in, use your head and have an interesting game. You are at a disadvantage.
You can't afford to make mistakes and you will be faced with one challenge after another. This explains why many players prefer the defending side since with the superior side it is too easy to get lazy, become adventurous and feel foolish for losing a game that should have been an assured victory. On the other hand, simply
settling down into a dull, predictable pattern in which you grind the other fellow into defeat is no fun either. The inferior side in any game is generally more exciting. Besides that, you already have an excuse for losing and you feel a lot better if you happen to win.
What Kind of Wargamer Are You?
Once you have comprehended the basic principles of any game, it is time to decide which kind of gamer you are. Put somewhat crudely, you are either going to play to win or to play to learn history. Always keep in mind that what constitutes victory in a historical situation is somewhat vaguer than what is presented so clearly in the game.
If you're going to play the game primarily to experience history, I refer you to the section of this book on "why play" which explores in some detail what bits of history to look for in a game. Since the game is a game, you will find your "historical experience" considerably enhanced by a use of many of the techniques found in this section. For this reason, the first thing I discussed was how to basically analyze a game. Much of the rest of this section consists of analysis and tricks of the trade.
The Play Cycle
Once you have learned the game, your next step is to discover the "play cycle pattern" of the game. Every game, because of its unique combination of elements, has a certain dynamic about its play. This dynamic manifests itself in a pattern of how most games played will go.
For example, take a game in which one side (like the Americans in the Battle of the Bulge) is considerably weaker than their attacking opponents (in this case, the Germans). As the game progresses, however, the weaker defending side continually receives far more reinforcements than the attacking side. This usually means that the attacking side must win early if it is to win at all, before the defender's inexorably growing strength makes a stalemate quite likely and defeat of the attacker quite possible.
In some games, the play cycle pattern is quite obvious. In many games, though, it is a bit more complex. By this I mean that one side may have an advantage in one section of the game map while being at a disadvantage in another. Even more likely is a situation in which one side has a potential advantage which can be realized only by making the correct preliminary maneuvers before beginning the battle.
Even more subtle are those games in which one side's advantage is not immediately obvious, but is buried under layers of special rules and conditions of the game. Again, this type of advantage can be uncovered and put to use only after careful analysis of the game. Remember that this play cycle is an important bit of historical insight you don't normally get out of a history book. It's another example of how a game will show you historical information that can only be obtained from a wargame.
The easiest and most straightforward way to find out what the play cycle pattern is, is to simply sit down and play the game solitaire a few times. If not the whole game, then at least the same sequence of turns over and over again. The opening turns of a game are usually quite dramatic and these can be profitably played two or three times.
It's very important to analyze a game through solitaire play. For one thing, you can concentrate. It's just you and the game. There are also psychological elements. There's no pressure on you to win, although, let's face it, you can still lose playing against yourself. But if nobody's there to see it when you screw up, you learn from your mistakes without suffering the ridicule of others (unless you enjoy dwelling on your defeats in public). You also don't waste another players time, as your inept moves provide no challenge at all for your opponent.
A Necessary Talent
Although the play cycle pattern's the sum total of all the things that are going on in the game and how they manifest themselves as a pattern, there are, even in the simplest games, a tremendous number of things going on at once. As a gamer, you are able to handle this multitude of elements in your head at the same time primarily because you are one of those rare people who have the interest, aptitude and mental agility to handle all of the elements going on at the same time. It's much like somebody's talent for playing a musical instrument. He doesn't consciously command his eyes, ears, fingers, lips whatever to do all of the coordinated things that must be done to produce a musical sound. The musician simply does it. Wargamers bring to the games a similar aptitude.
What we are talking about here is examining the various detailed actions that go into the play of the game, simultaneously and then sorting out the really useful information.
People who cannot play the games (as well as many who can, but have
not bothered to try
it yet) are totally overwhelmed when first confronted with a wargame.
Many people overcome
this initial state of shock by applying their historical knowledge,
which makes a lot of
sense since this is one of the key reasons why many people get into the
games in the first
place. This historical approach often leads to some interesting game
results. Invariably,
the actions of the historical commanders were not necessarily the most
efficient, but at
least repeating history gets you into playing the game.
In wargames as in real life, strategy is largely dictated by the available tactics. If tactics are what you do in detail, strategy is what you do with your total resources. If your tactics are such that your forces are much more effective in rough and wooded terrain, then your strategy will dictate that you need far fewer forces to hold the wooded terrain and, if perchance, you have specialized units that are more effective than the enemy in attacking in rough and wooded terrain, then much of your operations would take place on that kind of ground. That's a fairly blatant example of how strategy is dictated by the tactical abilities of your units. In wargames, tactics are also affected by certain mechanical elements common to most games. The chief among these is the hexagon grid itself.
As you can see from looking at the Drive on Metz game (and it's a good idea to refer to the game map while reading this section), there's a best way and a worst way to defend on a hexagon grid. The best way is to have an empty hex between each unit, have your defending units in a straight line along the grain of the hex. The "grain" of the hex grid is a straight row of hexes (the hexes stacked on top of each other like barrels).
The worst defense is one in which there is a unit in every hex along the grain of the hex. This prevents you from covering a very wide area, usually makes it easier for your units to be surrounded and also ties down a large number of your forces. The next worst defense is defending against the grain since this allows the attacker to bring a minimum of three units to bear against each of your defending units. When you're defending against the grain you also have the option of having a non straight line since you will again have no more than three attacking units against each one of your defending units. This can actually be an advantage in that, in almost any situation, you won't be able to avail yourself of a straight line because of the way the terrain shows up in irregular patterns across the map. That hill you must defend or river crossing that must be held always seems to be in an awkward position. Thus, the straight line is the unnatural situation.
Another type of defense which is not really a defense at all is the one in which you have two empty hexes between each unit. This is actually not a defense but a screen since the loss of one unit or even the movement of one unit one hex in the wrong direction opens up your line and allows your enemy to penetrate into your rear area and easily surround your units. A situation such as this assumes one of four things. One, you don't have sufficient forces to cover the front, in which case there's not much you can do about it. Second, you do have sufficient force to cover the front, but you prefer to have a strong reserve (in which case you know what you're hex tactics doing); and if the enemy does break through, you will presumably know what to do with your superior reserve. Third, you've just made a stupid, terrible mistake and are about to lose the game because you left two empty hexes between each defending unit. Four, you took a calculated risk that one particular part of the front would not be threatened and left this area thinly held. If you calculated correctly, you can recover from this, if not, go back to third item.
Another one of the standard items of hexagon games is the ability of the attacker to advance into the defeated defender's vacated hex. This is usually known as "advance after combat" and is an exception to the general rule that units may not move during the part of the game turn where they conduct combat operations.
All is not as simple as it seems. Remember, in most games you cannot move once adjacent to an enemy unit. On the face of it, that vacated hex is a new possession of the victorious attacker, but it can be a poisoned gift if, on either side of it, are additional defending units. Therefore, you must observe a couple of very important rules when making your decision as to whether or not your attacking units should advance, There are basically three reasons why you would want to advance. First, this would normally pin down additional defending units. You may wish to do this even at the risk of losing the advancing unit. Second, as a corollary of the first reason, you may wish to set up a defending unit for elimination by surrounding it with flank attacks and then destroying the unit just surrounded (and thus unable to retreat)

Surround Attacks
The third reason is for you to be in favorable terrain. This is often the case in situations in which you are fighting over possession of a town or another key terrain feature. Since, in many games, you are forced to have combat if you are in an enemy unit's Zone of Control (one of the units adjacent hexagons, which limit the movement of enemy units entering it), by your taking the favorable terrain, the enemy will then be forced to attack you at unfavorable odds.
Again, the only big risk in advancing after combat is that the advancing unit would put itself in a position to be surrounded and destroyed in the next turn. This risk must be weighed against the potential advantages.
The defender will also get opportunities occasionally to advance after combat if the attacker gets an unfavorable result and must himself either retreat (or be destroyed). Normally, the defending unit will not advance after such a favorable combat. In the first place, since the defender is going to move next anyway, there's no advantage to be gained by advancing in order to pin enemy units, although there are exceptions. There could be a situation in which the defending unit is already immobilized by enemy units all around it and, in its own turn, would not be able to move anyway. In a case such as this, your "lost battalion" might as well do all the damage it can since its days are numbered. In general, the only reason for the defending unit advancing after combat is to disrupt the attacking side's operations. But again, you must weigh the possible loss of that unit against any possible advantage. When dealing with combat operations on the hex grid, you will quickly discover that when playing another person, the intrinsic instinct for self-preservation rapidly asserts itself in the form of an unbreakable line of your units facing an unbreakable line of your opponent's units. Victory, then, usually boils down to how best to break the line.
I should point out that this is a classic problem for game designers. Granted, there are many situations that are basically lines of opposing troops staring at, and sparing with, one another, unable to do much damage. But what makes historical wargames so interesting is that most battles did have a winner (war, being a game without rules, does not lend itself to draw-type situations). These victories were usually the result of any number of factors that, if the designer can incorporate them successfully into the game, will make for a rich and varied situation.
Some of these factors had to do with the way the armies were set up at the beginning of the battle. Others pertained to restrictions (often self-imposed) placed on one side or the other with regard to moving or using their combat forces. Other odd but interesting effects come from the historical victory conditions which often have nothing to do with logic, but are nonetheless critical because at the time, they seemed like the right things to do. For example, in the Drive on Metz game, the Americans would have been much better served by trying to get around Metz from the north instead of from the south. At the time, going around from the south seemed a great idea, but, with the advantages of hindsight, we can see that the Germans north of Metz were weaker than we assumed.
History provides a never-ending procession of examples such as this. Without such odd and illogical behavior, history would be dull indeed, and there wouldn't be much need for games such as ours.
All right, but let us assume logic does prevail and you're faced with a line of units. You've got to crack it. If there isn't any flank you can get around and assuming it has to be a frontal assault, pay close attention to the following points on how to do it.
First of all, you must be the superior player. That is, you must have more strength on the map than the other player. First you must calculate the maximum of combat strength you can bring to bear in any one hex. This means analyzing your units and, if you have stacking of units (more than one unit on a hex) in the game, you must take that into account to see how strong a "shock" force you can come up with. Then you must calculate the maximum defensive strength of the various enemy positions. What you are trying to achieve is good combat odds, normally 3 to 1 or better, so that you can at least push back defending enemy units, What you are going to try to do is compromise the defender's entire position by taking key defensive positions away from him. As this is done, you will force the defender to do one of two things: either retreat his entire line, which will be costly since you will have already pinned down (moved adjacent to) some of his units, thus forcing him to sacrifice the pinned units in order to retreat the others; or, if he decides to stay where he is, you will create a bulge in his line that you will eventually surround and destroy. This is much like a siege in that it's going to require a lot of carefully planned attacking. It will also require a bit of luck since, if the defender is on the ball, he is going to see what's coming and form his own shock force for the purpose of taking yours on.
You now begin to see that technical expertise will take you only so far. A lot of it is psychological. Much of it depends on the other player making a mistake or something as simple as putting one unit in the wrong hex, putting it in a position that looks OK at first, but on further analysis is not OK at all. In this respect, playing the games is much like playing chess. There are tremendous similarities and the last time we checked, more than 98 percent of wargamers had played chess. To be successful with wargames, you've got to plan, look ahead and be lucky.
All of this advice also works when playing solitaire. It's an amazing experience to take advantage of, and be tripped up by, your own mistakes on both sides. Kind of makes you humble.
In the Blue & Gray game system (and in almost all game systems having advance-after combat and Zones-of-Control) there is a basic defensive doctrine which should be followed with virtually religious zeal. It is: the defensive line should be as straight as possible, running with the "grain" of the hex pattern, and there should be one vacant hex between each defensive position.
Optimum Defensive Line

The advantages of such an arrangement are these:
1. No unit can be surrounded when a part of such a defense (niether in the Enemy Movement Phase nor by advance after combat).
2. There are only two hexes from which any position in such a line may be attacked.
3. The line is the most economical use of units consistent with good defensive coverage.
4. If an Enemy unit succeeds in advancing into one of the positions in the line, it is realtively easy to counterattack such an exposed unit and regain the line (there is also a good chance that the advanced Enemy unit can be surrounded and destroyed).
The Least Desirable Defense
The least desirable defense is one in which there are two vacant hexes between each defensive position in the line. This type of line allows the units to be easily surrounded (by three or more attackers) and destroyed. Such a posiiton is easily shattered and difficult to retake.

The Second Least Desirable Defense
It is also not desirable to defend in a "packed" line, I.e., one in which all of the defending units are adjacent to each other. This wastes units, and, more importantly, allows the attacker to make front-to-flank attacks (see main text).

Defending Against the Grain
When defending on a line situation against the grain of the hexagon grid, the units should be positioned in a manner similar to the optimum defense, i.e., with a single hex between each. Because of the geometry of the hex grid, the attacker will be able to attack any particular unit from three hexes.

As an alternative to a simple straight line against the grain, the Player may wish to "refuse" the flanks of every other unit, making these forward positions the strongest unit or stack of units. This makes the line strongest in the areas where the Enemy can be the strongest (i.e., the only hexes against which three attacking groups can bear are those containing the strongest defending units).

Players should note that these defensive formations are idealized and do not take into account local terrain variations which may force upon the Player less orthodox defensive deployments.
We have discussed some of the basic elements in playing wargames. Ultimately, however, it is the quality of play which will determine who will win. Look at it this way. Two players of equally high skill in tactics, technique and analysis will play a dull game the outcome of which will largely be determined by the intrinsic bias of the game for one side or the other. This rarely happens. In chess there is often reference to "dull" games in which both players did what was expected. In wargames the situation is far more ripe for innovation and surprises.
It is relatively simple for a player to develop a good (even superior) tactical skill at games. What is more difficult is acquiring superior technique and analysis ability.
Technique is a grab bag of skills involving the evaluation of the elements of the game and the options thus available. Take, for example, our Drive on Metz. The German player has considerable variety in his forces. He has strong units, he has weak units, He has fast units, he has slow units. Because Drive on Metz is a simple game, there are none of the what we call "special" units with unique abilities. However, most games do have such units. In Drive on Metz, for example, there could be artillery units which could project their combat strength over three or four hexes.
The German player, in order to maximize his chances for success, must mentally (or on paper) draw up a list of his units ranked in order of their abilities. The easiest way to do this is to simply multiply the unit's attack value by its movement value. The resulting number would be the unit's total value. Line up all the units on the list by value. You now have what amounts to a list of your best and your worst units. Naturally enough, your best unit will be a relatively strong one that is very fast. On the other hand, units that are relatively strong and slow are also useful, but different.
The German player must then analyze the terrain that he must defend. This can also be done by dividing his front into sectors, say blocks of hexes, four or five long and three or four deep. Assign each type of hexagon a value according to its defensibility. An open or clear-terrain hex would get a value of 1. A fortified hex would get a value of say 3 or 4, And the woods and town hexes would get something in between. Thus, each sector would come up with a number indicating its relative defensibility. This defensibility is almost as good as having additional units since any unit that is placed in there is multiplied in its defense value, At this point the player can then proceed to evaluate what the enemy forces can do, rank the enemy forces and, in effect, think like the enemy. This is probably one of the key elements of good chess play, looking at the game from the other player's point of view.
Once new players realize the value of this the quality of their play increases enormously. While these techniques will improve your skill at using the games, don't forget the opportunity to just sit down and start playing the game. Most gamers do this quite a lot. While the games lend themselves to some very interesting analysis, it's also entertaining and educational to just, as chess players put it, "push wood."
Analysis With A Little Life In It
One thing you will notice is that the analysis of wargames is not the dry, systematic, mathematical (which, admittedly, some people get off on) analysis that you have in chess or other abstract games. Rather, you're analyzing a real historical situation. Because the games demand such realism and accuracy in their historical information, players get the feeling that they are participating in a study of human events, which is exactly what they are doing. This makes the analytical work more palatable.
So you study the hell out of the game. In a tactical sense, this is a pretty good approach. It still doesn't mean you're going to do very well unless you show some ability at analysis. By analysis I mean, what you can do with all of this in the game itself. For example, so what if you outnumber the other fellow two to one? If he's holding the mountains that you have to get into, this might actually be putting you at a disadvantage. Analysis means determining what type of specific tactical situations will arise in the game and what is your optimal reaction to these situations. Your tactical skill and your techniques are merely the tools that you apply on the basis of your analysis. Many gamers go back to historical accounts of the battle their gaming. They often find good analysis there, and its often by the original participants. If nothing else, you get an idea of what not to do.
Between two really skillful players, it is the analyses by the two players which will cause most of the excitement. Often both players will correctly analyze the situations in a general sense. Where they may differ is how they apply the tactics or techniques to implementing their analysis. This makes for very exciting play. For example, one player may have determined that in order to win a game of Waterloo he must attack certain British units during a specific turn of the game with a certain force. This force can either be all ground forces or it can employ a large amount of his artillery. How much of his artillery he can spare will largely be determined by what he is doing during the entire battle that turn. Thus, while the player has good tactics for using the artillery and good technique analyzing where it will usually be most needed, there is still enough room left in any wargaming situation to go one way or the other. There are so many hundreds of unconscious decisions being made when any one of these situations is being analyzed, that it is a truly creative act when one player comes up with an analysis of the particular turn of the game that is demonstrably superior to another player's analysis.
While I understand these techniques and have used them to one extent or another, I am not the greatest practitioner in the world. My knack is for designing the games, not playing them. When I do play, I get distracted by my habitual tendency to try and figure out how the game was put together and then to try and come up with better ways to do it. Meanwhile, my opponent is usually just playing the game. Many times I've been on the receiving end of much better users of these playing techniques and I find it much more pleasurable to watch two other players knock each other's brains out in a creative contest of wargaming tactics, technique and analysis.
Wargaming techniques are methods that are generally applicable to any type of game. They are just more applicable to wargames because wargames have more things going on in them. There are more elements to apply technique to.
As described above, one of your basic techniques is analyzing your units. Once you have analyzed them you then have a second technique known as effective deployments.
Because most wargames have playing pieces are deployed on a hexagonal grid, the positioning of these forces helps determine the forces effectiveness. For example, your lighter and slower units are generally garbage and are best put in the front line where they can absorb the enemy's initial blow. Your weak but fast units are often best deployed on flanks where they can rush about or at least slow down any enemy attempt to surround you. Your strong but slow units are generally best deployed right behind your weak front line unit so as to move up and stop any attempt at pushing into your position. Your strong and fast units are best used as your general reserve to be kept in the middle of your position so that they can rapidly be shifted anywhere either to defend a key area or to exploit a successful attack. Range fire units (units such as artillery or archers, etc. that can "fire" their combat power over two or more hexes) are usually deployed to make maximum use of their ability to project their combat power over a wide area. Thus, missile units can reinforce non-missile units. Needless to say, when you're analyzing a unit's effectiveness a missile unit becomes important far beyond its basic combat and movement ability.
For any other specialized unit, the same applies. For example, some games have leader units which are necessary to get the combat units to move, fight or do just about anything. These units must be deployed so as to enable you to do what you want to do. Put them in the wrong place and you're going to be high and dry when it comes to getting things moving.
Note that the above advice on using various types of units also applies to chess, and has been the accepted wisdom in military circles for several thousand years.
Just to sit down and attempt to develop different (and one would hope better) deployments for a particular game is an interesting exercise which many players indulge in. This type of activity often leads to interesting surprises, as when the player who has done his homework unveils a new and more effective deployment on an unsuspecting opponent.
Many players prefer to tinker with the game in this manner rather than actually play it. Tinkering is a low-hassle, mentally stimulating, take-things-as-they-come activity. Playing the game tends to be a bit more intensive even if you're only playing against yourself. Most gamers tend to be people who like to tinker with things and games are eminently "tinkerable."
Either player in the game has the option of speeding up the level of events. In most games each player takes his turn moving and attacking, and one player taking an inordinate amount of time doing so still does not deny the fact that one player can unilaterally increase the activity level of the game by doing more moving of the units and in particular by engaging in more combat since this forces the other player to respond.
It is inherently easier to increase the tempo of some games. These are games that have relatively bloodless Combat Results Tables. This means that the risk to an attacker is considerably less than in a game in which each combat produces some loss for somebody. You can still increase the tempo in a game with a deadly CRT. It simply takes more skill to do it without automatically losing too often.
Once you increase the tempo you gain an immediate advantage. First of all, the other player (assuming you have somewhat equal skills) doesn't know what's going on. He can only assume that you're up to something. If you're smart, you will be up to something and not just raising a little hell. As the tempo of play increases, as more attacks are made, as more units in contact move to and fro, the tactical situation is constantly changing.
At any given time you must, if you are on the ball, be aware of the tactical possibilities of all of your units. Who is in danger, who has opportunities sitting in front of him, where the opportunities or potential opportunities happen to be. As you increase the tempo of play you are changing all of this rapidly from turn to turn. What you are doing here to a large extent falls into the area of gaining a psychological advantage.
This is no different from any other human conflict situation. In fact, let's not confine it to humans, let's take animals in general. There's always some sort of pecking order instantly established in animal groups. One animal or the other will soon gain some sort of advantage. This can often work to the "advantaged" side's disadvantage. Some players, for example, allow themselves to assume the role of the "lesser player" and thus lull the "superior" player into a false sense of superiority until such time as the "lesser" player lowers the boom.
When Not To Follow The Script
Many players also have an overly slavish approach to what happened historically. If one side, for instance, was the defender historically, they assume that in playing the game on that event they must adopt a defensive attitude. Quite often this is just the opposite of what is the best for them in that situation. Again, a perfect example is any Waterloo game (there are many). In that situation, the Battle of Waterloo in June, 1815, the French were indeed attacking the British. But the British were not at that much of a disadvantage. They were capable of counterattacking and counterattack they originally did. In the game you can benefit by being even more aggressive than the British originally were. This is especially true if you are playing a sloppy French commander. I have seen many players become victims of their own overly literal reading of the historical accounts. If faced with an inept Napoleon, take advantage of the situation.
Shaping Your Play
Shaping is a technique in which you use things such as tempo, psychological advantage, tactics, technique and analysis to put the enemy in a position you want him in. This is a legitimate technique whether you are on the offense or the defense. What it comes down to is everything you do in the game is done with a specific objective in mind. You don't advance in a certain direction, you don't retreat in a certain direction unless this fits in with the plan you have devised. Many people are afraid of planning. They simply react, and this gives the other player an enormous advantage. Unless the other player is also reacting, which then produces a muddled and confused game quite similar to many historical battles fought with similar reactive attitudes by the original commanders.
To react without planning is to let the other player shape your game. When you get two players who are reacting it becomes a very interesting and unpredictable game, and many people prefer to play it this way. There is nothing wrong with that. However, if you want to obtain more control over the game and do things in a more systematic manner, you must come up with a plan, with objectives.
The most obvious objectives are fulfilling the games victory conditions in the game. Yet a plan consists of more than saying, "Well, these are the victory conditions and this is how I'm going to do it." You must work things out
in more detail. For example, in the Drive on Metz, the German player must determine which unit he is going to put where to defend what. Up in the north by Thionville he has to worry about the Americans putting a main thrust where there are so few German units. Thus, he must make some of his more mobile units available to be sent north very quickly. In the center, where the Germans are probably most vulnerable, they do have the advantage of terrain and fortification. But the fortifications, once lost, are almost impossible to retake. So particular care must be taken with regard to what is put in the center to hold these key areas.
Developing the ability to do this, to shape, takes time. All I am pointing out here is that the opportunity exists. Many players will find that they do not care to do that much work to play a game. However, I think most players would benefit from at least giving it a try because they would probably find, at the very least, a simpler version of some of the techniques I'm talking about here, which they can regularly apply without any perceived additional expenditure of energy. The object of all of this is not to turn the games into a lot of drudgery, but simply to point out things which players will probably eventually stumble upon themselves anyway. Many of the techniques we are talking about actually make the games more enjoyable. You feel less "lost" and you feel more in command of the situation (no pun intended.)
Special Problems with Multi-player Games
Most of the techniques dealt with above are applicable primarily to two-player games as well as the individual player activities of multi-player games. However, multi-player games do have a dynamic of their own which is not found in two-player games. When you get three or more people involved there is the possibility of coalition. Additionally, funny things happen in people's heads as they comprehend the fact that they are dealing with not one person but two or more. This usually has some interesting and rather predictable results.
For example, in the early 1970s I did a game for Avalon Hill called the Origins of World War II. This game was a multi-player game in which players assumed the roles of the various powers in Europe. Although the players were told that they had to stop Germany if they wanted to prevent World War II, each player had his own specific victory condition and invariably everybody would look out for himself and Germany would walk into all the adjacent countries and would usually end up winning the game anyway.
In Dungeons and Dragons and most other role-playing games a similar situation exists. It is understood, and it is often made explicit, that the players will gain more individually as well as a group if they cooperate with one another. Invariably, players will be more interested in looking out for their own personal gain at the expense of any possible
cooperation or planning ahead with other members of the team. I can offer no pat solutions to this. It seems to be an intrinsic element in human nature. People like to "do it themselves." This is one of the chief attractions of a role-playing game in which you are playing a role. In fact, the games might more appropriately be called role-building games.
You are building a role and by playing it out you give it substance. Cooperating with somebody else somewhat diminishes the individual in a game such as this. It is a bit more blatantly obvious in role-playing games, but it is an element present in any multiplayer game. People cooperate only briefly and only to confront and solve immediate problems. This gives multi-player games a great deal of flexibility. They can go on and on because no one person is going to gain a long-lasting advantage. It's more of a problem in role-playing games in which you are not really playing against the other players, but while this attitude exasperates the dungeon masters (or "game masters," who are running the game), the players don't seem to mind that much and take their licks like the heroes they are trying to be.
Many special words or meanings of words have been developed to assist in the play of wargames. Very few of these terms are completely unique to wargaming and many of them are borrowed from scientific and military usages. The following list gives the more common terms you will encounter in playing historical simulation games.
Ae (Attacking Units Eliminated). All of the
participating attacking units are destroyed (removed from play). This
result is common when a very unfavorable attack is being made, one that
has a high probability of the attacker being effectively wiped out.
Ar (Attacking Units Retreat). All of the participating
attacking units must retreat one or more hexes. One of the more common
results. Attacking is more difficult than defending and attackers
frequently are thrown back.
Ad (Attacking Units Disrupted). All of the participating
units are disrupted. This usually means that all of the affected units
are pinned in the hex they are in or otherwise prevented from attacking
or performing any action when they would normally be capable of. This
is a variation on Ar (Attacking Units Retreat).
A1, A2, A3, etc. (Attacking units lose indicated number of
steps or strength points). One or all of the participating
attacking units are reduced by the number indicated (or retreated the
indicated number of hexes). Another variation on Ar (Attacking Units
Retreat).
Aex (Attacker Exchange). The attacker loses
participating units whose face value is at least equal to the
face value of the defending force. Sometimes this is expressed as AEx,
meaning that the attacker loses participating units equal to at least
one half of the face value of the defending force. This result
demonstrates the common outcome of an attack: it succeeds but with
heavy loss to the attacker.
Ex (Exchange). The weaker force is destroyed and the
stronger force must lose participating units, the value of which is at
least equal to the value of the weaker force. This result is very
common and, obviously, penalizes the weaker force, whether it would be
the attacker or defender. A variation on this has the stronger force
taking losses only if they have a unit or units to lose that do not
exceed the value of the defending units lost. If the only attacking
units eligible for loss are stronger than the defending units, the
attacker takes no losses in this type of exchange.
Eg (Engaged). The forces involved in this combat remain
locked together, sometimes with further combat mandatory, etc. This is
a more common outcome than most "gamers" would prefer but is typical of
many 20th century battles where two sides remain locked together in
combat for long periods.
Cn (Contact). The forces involved have discovered each
other, which means that in game systems using dummy or
concealment counters, the two sides involved in the contact result are
now revealed.
Ca (Counterattack). The defending force usually must make
an immediate attack against the attacking force. This particular option
is used to depict the lethality of a units situation once it has
successfully penetrated into an enemy line.
Pk (Panicked). The affected force (can be either attacker
or defender) is panicked and usually suffers a result that will hinder
its effectiveness either by "freezing" them (cannot move or attack) or
by forcing them to wander off when their turn to move next comes
around. Commonly found in tactical level games.
Rt (Routed). The affected forces execute a headlong
retreat, a variation on the effects of panic, disruption, etc. A
Rout effect often has a similar panic effect on other friendly units
encountered as the unit flees to the rear. Usually only found in
tactical level games.
De (Defending Units Eliminated). Identical to all of the
results given to the attacker such as Ae, Ar, etc.
There are many more results and combinations of results possible in wargames. The ones listed above are the most commonly found, but even in that short list you can see how easily one may come up with variations.
Driving a car for 100,000 miles causes a certain amount of "friction." If you drive the car 100,000 miles in one trip, you're going to have some more "friction." Same with military affairs, although more common. There is always some friction in military operations, and often there's a whole lot.
In some games (usually strategic level), game turns are combined into repeatable sets to allow for functions that take place every so many turns. For example, in a game with monthly turns, every three months (or every year) certain production events may take place. This group of game turns would be called a game cycle. In some cases both players perform a function during some part of the game turn. In this case the activity would be called "joint" (as in joint player turn, etc.). In some games this whole procedure gets rather involved, which is why so much organization is needed.
The aforementioned types of units have been in common usage since about 1800. Before that, the terms battalion, brigade and army were most prevalent. The term battalion came out of the term battle which was a group (varying from a few hundred to a few thousand) that could be controlled by one man and long called a "battle." In pre-gunpowder days, the Romans had a very flexible unit organization in which units they called cohorts were very much the equivalent of modern-day battalions. A group of cohorts made up a legion which was remarkably similar to a modern-day division. All of the individual military organizations will show up at one time or another in a game. The non land environment unit counters will either represent individual planes or ships or small groups of same.
The various effects of Zones of Control on combat are as follows:
- Active; this requires every unit in a Zone of Control to attack enemy units adjacent to them during a combat phase.
- Inactive; Units do not have to attack.
There are also effects upon supply and the ability to retreat as a result of combat.
- An interdicting Zone of Control prohibits the line of hexes for retreat or supply from being traced through all enemy-controlled hexes, even if a friendly unit is occupying that hex.
- A suppressive Zone of Control prohibits the passage of supply or retreating units through a Zone of Control hex unless that hex is occupied by a friendly unit.
- Permissive Zone of Control does not affect the path of supply or retreat in any way.
For example, a blocking, active, interdicting Zone of Control is the most restrictive kind. Units must stop upon entering, may not leave except as a result of combat and must attack any enemy units that are in their Zone of Control. In addition, units may not retreat into one of these hexes if forced to as a result of combat and may not trace any supply through them. On the other hand, a unit with an open, inactive, permissive Zone of Control in effect has no Zone of Control.